7, 62 Bishop Street Kelvin Grove
T : +617 3356 5504


Allbrands has been providing professional pool cleaning services to Brisbane pool owners for over ten years and maintains in excess of one hundred residential and commercial swimming pools in the Brisbane metro area each month. We are licensed pool service technicians and electrical contractors (license #: 67225) with fully equipped and specially customised pool service vehicles to ensure prompt, competent service. Allbrands can assist with regular pool servicing, green pool recovery, equipment repairs, storm damage, tenant handovers, insurance letters and any other help you may require.

For your convenience we offer free professional water testing at our premises in Kelvin Grove or on-site testing with our fleet of mobile pool service technicians. Both our shop and vehicles are fully stocked with a complete range of pool chemicals and equipment and we service the following brands in our in-house workshop.


We offer a range of effective and energy saving pool services that are tailored to suit your budget and your pool.
Monthly, fortnightly, weekly or contracted services can be arranged, call us now on 07 3356 5504 to help us find the best solution for you.
Please note that the service does not include the cost of chemicals required to balance your pool and vacuuming is an additional $22.00.

Green Pools

Green pools are simply the result of algae thriving in your pool due to low chlorine levels. They often happen after prolonged periods of heavy rain because the overload of fresh water washes out the chlorine and the chlorinator isn't able to 'catch up'. Regardless of how long your chlorinator runs the chlorine will disappear after a lot of rain so to prevent a green pool add some extra liquid chlorine.

If if it’s too late and your pool is already green Allbrands can fix it. Depending on the damage Allbrands will sort the most effective way to fix your pool Remember that if your pool has been green for a while or if there is a lot of debris such as leaves, mud or anything else that has been blown or washed into the pool it will take extra time, chemicals, vacuuming and cleaning which all adds extra cost.

Concrete Pools

Concrete pools are generally finished with plaster, an age old process of finishing many structures. Used underwater it provides the watertight seal that the more porous shotcrete beneath it cannot. Plaster finishes provide twenty years of service under ideal conditions, however ours is rarely an ideal world. The plaster surface is meant to degrade slowly, eventually requiring a fresh coat.

Barring problems in the mixing, application and curing processes, the pool owner controls its condition and life span. Keeping your water chemistry in balance and most importantly, preventing corrosive water environments of low pH and low alkalinity will reduce wear and tear.
Maintain your pH levels at between 7.4 - 7.8

Alkalinity should be kept between 80 - 120 ppm. Lower levels may etch your plaster, which provides a safe harbor for dirt and algae to grow, isn't attractive and is rough to the touch.

Heavy metals cause stains.

Metallic salts cause scale. These salts are primarily forms of calcium and magnesium which can deposit on your plaster, pipes and equipment. They may arise from the use of calcium based sanitizers or the fill water may have high calcium hardness levels.

Keep your calcium hardness levels between 200 - 400 ppm. A level that is above this may find it easy to precipitate out of solution. This is known as a scaling condition. Conversely, water with low levels of hardness will produce an aggressive condition. In aggressive conditions (soft water), the water will take the calcium it wants directly out of your plaster, resulting in plaster breakdown and bond failure.

Common Concrete Pool Problems

Pool plaster is pitted or etched (see picture below)

If your plaster has surface irregularities, which may take on a beige hue, you have what's commonly called etching. This etching can be caused by low pH or alkalinity; an acidic condition. It may begin within the plaster, from the original mix on application, or etching may start from the concrete side of the plaster and work itself from the outside in.

Pool plaster has large, dark areas

You may be seeing the gunite or shotcrete beneath the plaster beginning to show through. You better start budgeting for that re-plaster.

Pool plaster has small cracks

Known as crazing or checking, the tiny, barely visible cracks are usually caused by extreme temperature variations, especially during initial curing. These are not actually cracks, and pose no structural hazard or danger of leaking. Acid washing could remove the crazed layer. Larger cracks should be cut out in a butterfly or dovetail fashion with a 4" or 7" grinder, and filled with a plaster patch mix or a flexible sealant can be used where further movement is suspected.

Fiberglass Pools

Fibreglass Pool Maintenance Tips

The "bathtub" ring which forms on the pool wall is caused by body oils, suntan lotions and air borne contaminants and can easily be removed with swimming pool tile cleaner or other non-abrasive commercial tile or vinyl cleaners. Do not use abrasive cleaners, steel wool, metal scrapers, brushes or tools as these may cause permanent damage to the gel coat finish. Dulled gel coat above the water line may be restored with a heavy cut automotive polishing compound either power or hand applied followed by a coat of wax. The gel-coat finish of your fibreglass pool can be scratched like any other gloss surface. The gelcoat is seven to eight times thicker than a normal coat of paint so it is not likely that scratches will be more than superficial.

Hair line cracks which may develop over a period of time are not uncommon. They only penetrate the gel coat and do not effect the pool's structure or result in leakage. Scratches and hair-line cracks are repairable. Contact your fibreglass pool dealer for more information. Most of the dirt and debris that sinks to the bottom of your pool can be brushed toward and into the main drain and will be trapped in the filter. Heavy amounts of dirt and debris should be vacuumed out.

Never drain your fibreglass pool!

Your fibreglass pool is designed to remain full of water at all times. If the pool is drained without proper directions, hydrostatic or ground pressure outside the pool could cause the structure to buckle or crack. All damage to the pool shell resulting from improper pool drainage is the owners responsibility. If it becomes necessary to drain the pool contact your fibreglass pool installer or the manufacturer.

Painted Pools

One of the most common pool surfaces is paint. Pool paint comes in many different colors, and is an inexpensive coating compared to other surfaces.

There are three types of pool paint:

Epoxy paint - for new constructions and pools painted previously with epoxy paint. It is long lasting, durable and will stand up to UV rays, automatic pool cleaners and chemical treatments. Epoxy paint will last about 7 - 10 years.

Chlorinated rubber base is not as durable or expensive as epoxy paint but is dependable, easy to use and relatively inexpensive. It is easy to apply, comes in many colours and will last about 3 to 5 years.

Water based acrylic pool paint can be used on any type of surface, is easy to apply and cleans up with water. This type of pool paint is ideal for commercial applications that are repainted on a regular basis and should last about 2 - 3 years.

Common Painted Pool Problems

My Pool Paint is Fading

Painted pools will begin to fade over time, nothing will stop this but you can “brighten-up” the paint with a light acid wash. Acid will remove any dirt and chalking that can dull a paint job. After cleaning the pool with a light solution of muriatic acid and water rinse and refill the pool.

My Pool Paint is Chalking

Some painted surfaces will begin to break down over time. The results can be dull, hazy water, as well as a white powdery residue that can rub off on hands, feet and bathing suits. To avoid this, water chemistry and maintenance are the key. The total alkalinity must be in the correct range, if the alkalinity is too low the pool paint will rub off. Harsh shock treatments will also cause the pool paint to chalk. Use lithium or a di-chloro base shock for maintenance. Harsh shock treatments like calcium hypochlorite will contribute to the deterioration of the pool paint job.

My Pool Paint has Blisters and Bubbles

Blistering is almost always caused by improper preparation. The pool paint must be applied to a clean dry surface. If the paint is applied too thick, or if the surface is too hot or warm, or if the pool is not cleaned properly, it will blister. Application temperature will also affect the final result. The only thing to do is repaint the pool or the spots that have blistered.


ALLBRANDS provides free water testing in our retail shop, we have a computerised photometer for the most accurate readings that automatically calculates how to balance your water depending on a number of factors including the season ( summer or winter ), your pool size, pool age and the type of pool, for example fibreglass, concrete, etc.


pH is a measure of how acidic or basic water is on a logarithmic scale between 0 and 14. From 0 to 7 is acidic, 7 itself is neutral and any reading above 7 up to 14 is basic. Every liquid that enters your pool has a pH value, the human eye at has a pH value of 7.35 which is very slightly basic and within range of the correct pH levels for your pool. To have pH in balance we adjust the water with additions of pH increasers ( bases ) or pH de-creasers ( acids ) to achieve the range of 7.2 - 7.8.

If your pool water test shows a pH value below 7.0 the water will be corrosive (acidic) and you will need to add a base to bring the pH into a more basic range. It doesn't take long for a low pH condition to weaken vinyl, strip heat exchangers and pit plaster. Conversely if the pH is above 7.8 it will be in a scaling (basic) condition and you will need to add acid to bring down the pH to prevent the formation of scale or calcium deposits.

Total Alkalinity

A close cousin of pH, the level of alkalinity in the water is a measurement of all carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxides, and other alkaline substances found in the pool water. pH is alkaline dependent; that is, alkalinity is defined as the ability of the water to resist changes in pH. Also known as the buffering capacity of the water, alkalinity keeps the pH from "bouncing" all over the place. Low alkalinity is raised by the addition of a base ( similar to pH ); sodium bicarbonate is commonly used. High levels of alkalinity are lowered by the addition of an acid ( similar to Ph ).

A very important component of water balance, alkalinity should be maintained in the 80-120ppm range for concrete pools and 125-170ppm for painted, vinyl, and fiberglass pools. Levels should be tested weekly.

Calcium Hardness

Scale is the whitish deposit inside your kettle and on the cells of your chlorinator which consists of calcium carbonate which has come out of solution and deposited itself on surfaces. It is a combination of carbonate ions, a part of total alkalinity and calcium, and a part of the Calcium Hardness level. The test for Calcium Hardness is a measure of how "hard" or "soft" the water is. "Hard" water can have high levels of calcium and magnesium. If these levels are too high, the water becomes saturated and will throw off excess particles out of solution which then seeks to deposit themselves on almost any surface inside the pool. They can be attracted to ladders, lights and in extreme cases deposit themselves as very small crystalline clumps - all over the pool surfaces. Calcium Carbonate scale; a "white-ish," crystallized rough nodule.

If the Calcium Hardness levels are too low, the water is under-saturated. If under-saturated, the water will become aggressive as it attempts to obtain the calcium it needs. Such "soft-water" will actually corrode surfaces inside the pool which contain calcium ( like pool plaster ) and other minerals to maintain its hardness demand.